Showing posts with label Co-Respondents. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Co-Respondents. Show all posts

What I Am Wearing - Spectators



It's not very often that I break out my pair of 1920's Chicago gangster-style spectators, but I always love the reactions that I get when I do. It's funny, because I never thought of them as "gangster-style" but this is a frequent comment that I receive amongst my colleagues here in London. I always looked at them as a very dandy-ish style shoe that elegant gentleman wore in the southern states of America when they wanted to dress up for festive garden parties or the likes of that. And while I am sure that their history goes back in a much more extensive way than that, it's just something that is embedded in my mind, being American and all. But now that I am one of the millions of viewers that watches the magnificent series, Boardwalk Empire, I can understand why they may receive this 'gangster' moniker. Nevertheless, there was a period when Church's were doing these in all types of color options (even white with yellow) and while I wanted to get one of each, I decided that I would just go with the most classic of them, as pictured here.

Shoes: Church's
Suit: MTM Gieves & Hawkes
Shirt: Primark
Tie: XMI Platinum
Socks: Mes Chaussettes Rouges




J.Fitzpatrick & Gaziano & Girling Collaboration


I don't know how many of you remember, but before I ever went to have my collection made up in Spain, I went to Tony Gaziano to learn how to make a pattern. He spent the day showing me using one of my very own designs. At first I thought that I would try and take another skill on board, but after seeing how intricate it can be and understanding that it would just add a few more years onto realizing my goals, I decided that I would leave it at that and maybe come to it at another point in life. But, that day was very integral to my knowledge in understanding why a pattern (and how it fits on the last) is so important. I realize that it is not just a shape that makes the shoe, but how the design (pattern) fits on that shape. How it compliments the curvature of the last. This is something that I am now struggling with in my own prototypes. Getting the pattern to fit the last, properly, is no easy feat, especially on your first round of making them. They usually need adjustments. 













Needless to say, this is the final result of my design. You may say, 'oh this is nothing unique,' but if you look carefully, I have extended the adelaide to follow the top line of the shoe, giving it sort of a 'wing-like' characteristic. As well as that, I have minimized the heel counter. I did that because I wanted to emphasize the flannel that I used, so that it would be the main focus of the shoe. And even though some might find these characteristics to be unpractical, I find them to be the refreshing difference to everything else that already exists.
















As far as the construction of the shoe goes, allow me to explain. So after Tony and I (really just Tony) completed the pattern, we had one of the closers that he uses sew all of the pieces together. This proved to be a difficult request due to the nature of the fabric. Yet, after a struggle, he still managed to do so and ended doing a very good job on such a difficult piece. The intention was then for me to make the shoes myself, but after a couple of complications, including lack of time and the fragility of the upper, we decided to just have it made in the G&G factory on the DG70 last. And as a surprise, they ended up constructing it with the Deco standard of construction and finish, to give it more of that 'handmade' feel. So that being, the concoction that you see presented here is designed by myself conceptually (and on paper), with the pattern done by Mr. Tony Gaziano, and then made up by the wonderful workers at Gaziano & Girling. The only downfall to all of this, is that this shoe will unfortunately be a one-off, as the flannel used is far to delicate and difficult to put into mass production. But, the design will be something that I incorporate into my first collection.


(Just to reiterate for clarification, this shoe will not be available by either side, and in the future, the design will be made available by me, not G&G)


Shoes Of The Week - Saint Crispins


When I first saw this pair in one single color (posted here) I fell in love with them. But when I saw this pair, by Saint Crispins, in a multiple leather type two-tone, I was absolutely blown away. Time and time again, they make the exact thing that I feel needs to be more present in the shoe industry and it makes me smile to know that other makers/designers appear to be thinking the same thing. So, it comes as no surprise that this company continues to grow, having their shoes being carried at more and more stores around the world, all while they carry a price tag of around $2000. This particular shoe just might be one of my favorite models in circulation at the moment. Not only does it remind of what they used to wear back in the early 20th century, but represents shoes as a piece of art, because looking at this, I would not know whether to wear it or place it on my mantelpiece. Just joking...I would definitely rock them!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leather Soul